Scotland
Edinburgh
Golden Hare Books
68 St Stephen Street, Edinburgh
This wonderful independent bookshop has been a fixture of Edinburgh’s Stockbridge since 2012. Golden Hare Books offers a thoughtfully curated selection of fiction, travel writing, cookbooks, and children’s books - the latter housed in a small, separate room at the back of the shop.
The interior is especially appealing: elegant and more reminiscent of a stylish boutique than a traditional bookstore. Browsing here is a genuine pleasure, made even more enjoyable by the booksellers, who are consistently friendly, knowledgeable, and happy to offer recommendations.
Golden Hare Books has a strong sense of identity and a character all its own. A place that invites you to linger.
A visit can also be perfectly combined with a walk along the nearby Water of Leith. I was particularly taken with the sculpture set in the water by Anthony Gormley.
Book i bought:
Ryan O'Connor: The Voids
John Kay’s Shop
8 Victoria Street, Edinburgh
How many times had I seen photographs of this street and promised myself that I would definitely not visit it on my next trip to Edinburgh? And yet, thanks to a wrong turn, I found myself right there.
To be fair, there was a bookshop tucked into one of those brightly coloured houses, so resistance was futile. John Kay's Shop offers a selection largely devoted to the classics of British literature. Alongside the books, however, there is a noticeable emphasis on non-book items: bags, prints, and souvenirs (including the slogan Edinburgh was built on books). At the back of the shop, a small second-hand section can be found, though even here the focus remains firmly on classic titles.
The shop is clearly aimed at visitors looking for a literary keepsake rather than readers searching for discoveries. It is pleasant enough, but for me it lacked that elusive spark that makes a bookshop truly memorable.
I had already bought a novel by Robert Louis Stevenson at the Writers’ Museum and had hoped to find a book by a different Scottish author here. But the beautifully produced John Kay’s edition of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde dominated the entrance so completely that I couldn’t resist after all, especially given its strong connection to the shop itself.
Book i bought:
Robert Louis Stevenson: The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde
The National Library of Scotland
George IV Bridge, Edinburgh
Libraries are extremely important. They preserve books and, through them, the history of many countries. Scotland is no exception. In the heart of the historic city centre, just a few steps from the charming Greyfriars Bobby, stands the National Library of Scotland, spread across several buildings.
I must admit that I came across the shop almost by accident. It was pouring with rain, the wind was fierce, and I was simply trying to figure out where I was. Darkness had already fallen when the library and its shop caught my eye. Realising I had come to Scotland without a book, I knew that regrettable situation had to be corrected at once.
The shop offers a wide range of souvenirs, many of them related to books. There is also a café, which unfortunately lacks a bit of charm. I was surprised to find a few novels among the selection; however, the range of books itself is rather small and clearly aimed at tourists and at those who enjoy bringing home a book related souvenir. I would have liked to see a more original selection.
That said, I was able to buy my book for the modest price of £3.99, a fine example of making reading accessible to everyone!
Book i bought:
Frances Hodgson Burnett: The Secret Garden
The Writers’ Museum
Lady Stairs House, Edinburgh
How delightful it is when literature is presented with such care and imagination. The Writers' Museum can be visited free of charge and offers an intimate yet rewarding experience dedicated to three giants of Scottish literature.
The museum is arranged across three principal rooms: the Robert Louis Stevenson Room in the basement, and the rooms devoted to Sir Walter Scott and the wonderful Robert Burns on the second floor. Each space contains a carefully chosen selection of portraits, sculptures, letters, and personal belongings, offering vivid insights into the lives and legacies of these literary legends.
On the first floor, a larger room serves as a small shop, where visitors can purchase souvenirs and a modest selection of books by the three authors. Strictly speaking, this does not make the museum a bookshop, but the wonderfully eccentric sign outside alone is reason enough to forgive that technicality.
Altogether, it is a charming, thoughtful place that celebrates literature in a way that feels both accessible and deeply respectful.
Book i bought:
Robert Louis Stevenson: The Treasure Island
Topping & Company
2 Blenheim Place, Edinburgh
I first came to know Topping & Company Booksellers through a visit to their Bath shop. The Edinburgh branch has its own distinct character, yet many of the qualities that make Bath so special are clearly present.
While the building itself may be less spectacular, the interior immediately feels familiar: tall, elegant shelves that suit the architecture perfectly, many fitted with beautiful, movable ladders. The ground floor focuses on non-fiction, with a strong emphasis on history and books about Scotland, creating a sense of place as soon as you enter.
A beautiful staircase leads to the upper floor, where fiction, children’s books, and additional non-fiction await. Particularly charming are the small tables by the windows, such as those in the art section, where you can browse while looking out onto the lively street below.
As in Bath, the selection is extensive and thoughtfully curated, including a remarkable number of signed copies and rare editions. I especially appreciate that the concept remains entirely devoted to books; the absence of non-book items gives the shop a distinctive, timeless charm.
The staff are unfailingly friendly and welcoming, very much in the best Scottish tradition.
All in all, this is a stylish, characterful bookshop in a beautiful city, and a place you’ll want to return to again and again.
Book i bought:
Julian Barnes: The Noise of Time
Typewronger Books
4a Haddington Pl, Edinburgh
Just a two-minute walk from Topping & Company Booksellers, Typewronger Books could hardly feel more different. The two bookshops may be almost neighbours, but they inhabit entirely separate worlds.
Typewronger Books clearly speaks to a younger, more contemporary readership.
What immediately catches the eye are the many typewriters scattered throughout the shop. The founder, Tee, previously worked at Shakespeare and Company in Paris, where Tee began repairing the old typewriters in the bookshop’s library. A blog was launched, fittingly titled Typewrongers, quickly gained a following.
When Tee returned to Scotland, the name came along. Although typewriters are no longer repaired on site, the spirit remains intact, now complemented by the offer of a freshly made coffee, a small but delightful touch that encourages visitors to linger.
Another charming feature is the passageway linking Typewronger Books to the neighbouring McNaughtan's Bookshop, a second-hand bookstore. This connection adds character and depth to the experience and neatly offsets the limited range at Typewronger Books, making the visit feel richer and more complete.
Book i bought:
Patrick Charnley: This, My Second Life